Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy (20 February 1927
[2] – 10 March 2018
[3]) was a French fashion designer who founded
The House of Givenchy in 1952. He was famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of
Audrey Hepburn and clothing for
Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy. He was named to the
International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1970.
Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy was born on 20 February 1927 in
Beauvais, Oise
[5][6][7] into a Protestant family.
[2] He was the younger son of
Lucien Taffin de Givenchy
(1888–1930), marquis of Givenchy, and his wife, the former Béatrice
("Sissi") Badin (1888–1976). The Taffin de Givenchy family, which traces
its roots to Venice, Italy (the original surname was Taffini), was
ennobled in 1713, at which time the head of the family became marquis of
Givenchy.
[8] He had an elder brother,
Jean-Claude de Givenchy (1925–2009), who inherited the family's marquessate and eventually became the president of Parfums Givenchy.
After his father's death from influenza in 1930, he was raised by their mother and maternal grandmother,
[7] Marguerite Dieterle Badin (1853–1940), the widow of
Jules Badin (1843–1919), an artist who was the owner and director of the historic
Gobelins Manufactory and
Beauvais tapestry
factories. Artistic professions ran in the extended Badin family.
Givenchy's maternal great-grandfather, Jules Dieterle, was a set
designer who also created designs for the Beauvais factory, including a
set of 13 designs for the
Elysée Palace. One of his great-great-grandfathers also designed sets for the Paris Opera.
He moved to Paris at the age of seventeen, where he studied at the
École des Beaux-Arts.
[6][7]
Career
Givenchy's first designs were done for
Jacques Fath in 1945.
[6][9] Later he did designs for
Robert Piguet and
Lucien Lelong (1946) – working alongside the still-unknown
Pierre Balmain and
Christian Dior.
[6][9] From 1947 to 1951 he worked for the
avantgarde designer
Elsa Schiaparelli.
[6][9]
In 1952, he opened his own design house at the
Plaine Monceau in Paris.
[6][7] Later, he named his first collection "
Bettina Graziani" for Paris's top model at the time.
[6]
His style was marked by innovation, contrary to the more conservative
designs by Dior. At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive
Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use
of rather cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued
curiosity through their design.
[citation needed]
Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy's fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of
Sabrina.
[10][11] He went on to design the
black dress she wore in
Breakfast at Tiffany's.
[10][11]
He also developed his first perfume collection for her (
L'Interdit and Le de Givenchy).
[6][7]
Audrey Hepburn was the face of that fragrance. This was the first time a
star was the face of a fragrance's advertising campaign, and probably
the last time that it was done for free, only by friendship.
[12]
At that time, Givenchy also met his idol,
Cristóbal Balenciaga.
[7][13]
Although a renowned designer, Givenchy not only sought inspiration from
the lofty settings of haute couture but also in such avant-garde
environments as
Limbo, the store in
Manhattan's
East Village.
[14]
Clients have included Donna
Marella Agnelli,
Lauren Bacall,
[5] Ingrid Bergman, Countess
Mona von Bismarck,
Countess Cristiana Brandolini d'Adda,
Sunny von Bülow,
Renata Tebaldi,
Maria Callas,
Capucine,
Marlene Dietrich,
[5] Daisy Fellowes,
Greta Garbo,
Gloria Guinness,
Dolores Guinness,
Aimee de Heeren,
Audrey Hepburn,
[10] Jane Holzer,
Grace Kelly,
[10] Princess Salimah Aga Khan,
Rachel Lambert Mellon,
Jeanne Moreau,
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis,
[10] Empress
Farah Pahlavi,
Babe Paley,
Lee Radziwill, Comtesse
Jacqueline de Ribes,
Nona Hendryx, Baroness
Pauline de Rothschild,
Frederica von Stade, Baroness Gaby
Van Zuylen van Nijevelt,
Diana Vreeland,
Betsey Cushing Roosevelt Whitney, Baroness Sylvia de Waldner, the
Duchess of Windsor,
Jayne Wrightsman, etc.
In 1954, Givenchy's
prêt-à-porter collection debuted.
[7][13]
De Givenchy created the iconic 'Balloon coat' and the 'Baby Doll' dress in 1958.
[15][16]
In 1969,
[17] a men's line was also created.
[7] From 1976 through 1983, the
Ford Motor Company offered a Givenchy Edition of its Continental Mark series of luxury automobiles beginning in 1976 with the
Continental Mark IV coupe and ending with the 1983 Continental Mark VI coupe and sedan. In 1988, he organized a retrospective of his work at the
Beverly Wilshire Hotel in
Beverly Hills, California.
[9]
The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to
Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch was acquired by
LVMH in 1989.
[18] As of today,
LVMH owns Parfums Givenchy as well.
[6]
De Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995.
[10] His successor to head the Givenchy label was
John Galliano.
[6][7] After a brief stint by Galliano, a five-year stay from
Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by
Julien Macdonald, Givenchy women's ready-to-wear and haute couture was then headed by
Riccardo Tisci from 2005 until 2017.
[6][7]
Clare Waight Keller is now the creative director of the fashion house since the Resort 2018 collection.
He resided at the
Château du Jonchet, a listed historic castle in
Romilly-sur-Aigre, Eure-et-Loir, near Paris.
[7] In his retirement, he focused on collecting 17th and 18th-century bronze and marble sculptures.
[11] In July 2010, he spoke at the
Oxford Union.
[6][7] From 8 to 14 September 2014, during the
Biennale des Antiquaires, he organized a private sale exhibition at
Christie's in Paris featuring, artwork by
Jean-Baptiste-Claude Odiot, the
Manufacture nationale de Sèvres,
Jacques-Louis David,
Anne-Louis Girodet de Roussy-Trioson, etc.
[19]
In January 2007,
The French Post Office issued postage stamps for
Valentine's Day
designed by Givenchy. In October 2014, a retrospective exhibition
featuring ninety-five of his designed pieces took place at the
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum in Madrid, Spain.
[10][20] His longtime partner was fashion designer Philippe Venet.
[21]
He died in his sleep at the Renaissance chateau near Paris on Saturday 10 March 2018.